Fixing up the Engine Room

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Winter 2005/2006 --

This page has some odds and ends that aren't really part of any other project.

Here's a picture of the engine room, right after pulling the engine on that rainy October day.

Wow. I spent two months of weekends pulling stuff out and cleaning
before starting to put things back in.

Big stuff included Pulling the Steering out, and Pulling the Fuel Tank.

However, a little lateral support right in front of the rudder thrust bearing can't hurt, so I did it the right way. This strip of 3/4" marine plywood is epoxied to the bottom of the sole, after the sole was scuffed up
with a grinder.

I'm also adding lots of little blocks,
epoxied where ever it's appropriate,
for attaching wiring and stuff.

It's interesting to see how much paint
these things soaked up on the first coat.

 

Originally, I had a long aluminum beam bolted under the sole. After hearing from about seven other LF38 owners, it was clear that the aluminum beam had been added by a previous owner to try and correct sag in the sole caused by rot. None of my sister ships had one.

So after rebuilding the cockpit sole, the sag is gone, and I'm not putting the beam back.

One of the things I'm doing in here is adding lots of light.

Since I have these little
Sea Dog Xenon lights all over the place, I'll also use them here to minimize the number of spare bulbs
I need
to stock.

The plywood is cambered
at a 45 degree angle,
and sanded smooth,
to make it easier fiberglass it.

I did the same thing with a little strip of marine ply that runs across the sole directly in front of the pedestal.

I really just wanted a strip of wood for attaching wires, but figured that I might as well lay some glass over it and make it a structural element.

Why not?

These long strips of 3/4" marine plywood are also for wiring and other things that need to run along the top of the engine room,
right above the engine.
Wires will run
along the outside edges.

In the back, you can see the repaired Rudder Stop Blocks.

At the left edge of this pic is cheap bilge hose running from a new cockpit drain. Right now, it drains right into the bilge. There will be two drains at this end of the cockpit. However, I might have to rip one or both out after I put the engine in, depending on how the exhaust system works out. Obviously I don't expect it to be a problem, but it'll live like this until I'm sure.

Then I rolled two layers of Knytex Tape from Tap Plastics over it. There are actually three layers in the center.

 

Here are the aft limber holes, but that project has
it's own page.

I don't know why,
but before painting the compartment for the
new fuel tank, I laid a little bit of additional fiberglass along the rudder stock, and along the tabbing on the front bulkhead.

It just seemed to be a good idea, since the area was cleaned up and
original laminate was exposed. It'll never be this clean again, and once it's painted I won't be able to add any additional reinforcement.

1/22/2006 -- Here it is with the fuel tank compartment painted, the top of then engine room and the aft compartments painted white, and the lights installed.

As soon as the rudder bearing on the top sole is in, I can put the new fuel tank in.

This is a milestone.

 

I couldn't paint the front of the bulkhead, though, because it's wet. There was a hole on the backside, next to the tank, and it let water and diesel into the plywood.

Bummer.

So I drilled out a bunch of holes on the top of the bulkhead,
and set these two heat lamps on it for two weeks.

I injected the holes with
Smith's Penetrating Epoxy, over and over until it wouldn't take any more.

Then, 36 hours later , the holes were packed with thick West System putty.

May 2006 -- Whew. This is taking way too long.

I added a little step in the cockpit locker, so that my foot won't slide down when standing on the hull.

The new fuel tank is in, and the steering is rebuilt.

In April, I hauled out to have the yard build new stringers for the new engine. After the boat sat for six weeks, I said heck with it and built my own stringers.

Note the new stuffing box.

The muffler is also moved onto a new shelf, so that it's lower and on the centerline.

After two weeks, it was as dry as it could get. There was still a mild Diesel smell, but it wasn't wet.

June 2006 --

After a brutally long haulout, we're finally putting the engine back in.

That's another project, though.

Replacing all the bulkheads, cabinetry and everything else will take a bit of time.

This page really hasn't had anything new
in a couple of months, so
it seems like the "new" engine room is done.

From this point on, it's just cleaning up and putting things back together.