After debating (for a couple of years) whether
it would be a good idea
to put padeyes down on the foredeck for tiedowns, I had decided against it.
It seemed like the bails on the new stanchion bases would work fine.
Mounting the padeye
involved the usual
holes in the deck.
I've started to like the "chopped off" hex key more
than my Handy Dremel Tool for reaming out balsa core.
You still need to use your Handy Dremel Tool to cut the hex key leg short, though.
A small sanding drum on my Handy Dremel Tool is still the
fastest and easiest way to make little countersinks
around the holes.
But then I needed to run fairleads for the spinnaker tack line, and it had to go inboard to cover some scars from old deck hardware holes. So it made sense to make the first fairlead a strong padeye and use it for both a dinghy tiedown and fairlead.
This padeye is big enough
to run a half inch line.
I also made it big enough to be noticeable,
so that one would (hopefully)
avoid jamming a toe through it.
Using a thin (1/8") thick pad of fiberglass from McMaster-Carr, and painting it black with Interlux, helps create
contrast and make it
easier to notice.
Bubble, bubble. I used a medium-thin mixture of West System
and colloidal silica.
Running the engine in gear at the dock helps to make epoxy bubbles rise faster. Then you can pop the bubbles with the point of an old, leftover screw or whatever's handy.
I like to put down enough caulk so that I know, beyond any doubt, that every little nook and cranny is sealed.
This was a bit too much!
But even so, this cleaned up
in about three minutes.
The first rag took off
most of the excess, and then a rag
thoroughly soaked in mineral spirits
cleaned the details up really easily.
The caulk is LifeCaulk, a polysulfide.